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purslain, cabbage, and the like, preserved with salt in vases. The Latin Dictionary of J. Field, 1669, also gives the word salgama with the above meaning. Richardson, in his dictionary, accepts and adopts the foregoing derivation. John Kersey, in his "Dictionarium Anglo-Britannicum," 1708, explains, "salmagundi or salmagund, an Italian dish made of cold turkey, anchovies, lemons, &c." Webster, 1832, makes the word to be a corruption of the Spanish salpicon, a salad made of cold meat, usually beef, cut into small pieces, pepper, salt, vinegar, and onions. Whereas French Dictionaries explain it to be a "ragoût de plusieurs sortes de viandes réchauffées"—"Et c'est de là que nous avons dit salmigondi, pour dire un ragoust composé de différens morceaux; ce que nous appelons autrement un pot-pourri." Johnson explains salmagundi as a corruption of selon mon goût, or salé à mon goût; and describes it as a mixture of chopped meat and pickled herrings, with condiments. He does not give any quotation or reference; but on this I think that I can throw a light. Dr. Johnson was a contributor to a periodical of the salmagundi order, called "The Student; or, the Oxford and Cambridge Miscellany," published in 1751; and on page 109 of vol. ii. is the following description of a foreign count:—"His library was small, and contained only a few tomes of memoirs, romances, routes, and guides des étrangers; but what he most valued was a manuscript book of cookery, in Madame Maintenon's own hand, with the original receipt for selon mon goût-Anglice, salamongundy-and the same that the count himself has since communicated to Monsieur Cloe."

It seems probable that Dr. Johnson had read this, and had made a note of it for his dictionary; and I presume that the "Monsieur Cloe" must be the same famous chef to whom Mr. William Vernal, of the White Hart Inn, Lewes, was indebted for the chief portion of his cookery-book, entitled "A Complete System of Cookery; in which is set forth a variety of genuine receipts, collected from several years' experience under the celebrated M. de St. Clouet, sometime cook to his Grace the Duke of Newcastle. Together with a true character of Mons. de St. Clouet. Lond., 8vo. 1759." I am unable, however, to refer to a copy of this scarce work; and I cannot, therefore, say if it gives the receipt above referred to, and what the composition of Madame de Maintenon's selon mon goût may have been. Could it have resembled the receipt given by Meg Dods for salmagundi? "Wash and cut open at the breast two large Dutch or Lochfine pickled herrings; take the meat from the bones without breaking the skin, and keep on the head, tail, fins, &c.; mince the fish, the breast of a cold roast chicken skinned, a couple of hard-boiled eggs, an onion, a boned anchovy, and a little grated ham or tongue; season with salad oil, vine gar, cayenne, and salt; and fill up the herring-skins so that they look plump and well-shaped. Garnish with scraped horse-radish, and serve mustard with the dish. Obs. An ornamental salmagundi was another of the frippery dishes of former times. This edifice was raised on a china bowl reversed, and placed in the middle of a dish, crowned with what, by the courtesy of the kitchen, was called a pineapple made of fresh butter. Around were laid—stratum above stratum—chopped eggs, minced herring and veal, rasped meat and minced parsley. The whole surmounted by a triumphal arch of herring-bones, and adorned with a garnishing of barberries and samphires." This receipt of Mrs. Meg Dods agrees, in the main, with the north-country dish called salmagundy, in which salads and salt herrings were the chief ingredients; though, in the South of England, lobsters took the place of herrings, so that the salmagundy was there equivalent to the modern lobster-salad.

Supposing the reference to Madame de Maintenon's selon mon goût to have any basis in fact, it would effectually dispose of the claim of Catherine de Medici to the sponsorial honours of salmagundi. Bailey, in his dictionary (14th edition, 1751), thus gives the word and its derivation:—" Salmagundi: salmingondin (in cookery): an Italian dish, or a hotch-potch of several sorts of cold meat. This word had its origin from Catherine de Medicis, Queen of France, whose head cook's name was Gondi, and who used to wait upon her at table; and she, loving her victuals pretty high-seasoned, would often call for salt, Sal mi Gondi; whence this relishing dish has obtained its name." This is a good example of getting over a philological difficulty per saltum. But another version of the story is told, which is attributed to "One of the Queens of France, whose chief lady-in-waiting was of the Italian family of Gondi; and, during dinner, the former was continually