Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/117

having beheld so dismal a Spectacle, and knowing the Grand Signor was preparing for a general Assault, would not obey their new Kan, but began to act like Revolters; and to that purpose they agreed to deliver up the City, upon condition they might march away with their Arms and Baggage: but the Turks did not keep their words. For so soon as the Turks were got into the City, the Basha's told the Grand Signor, that to weak'n the force of the Persian, it was necessary for him to put to the Sword all the Souldiers that were in the City: and thereupon there were above twenty thousand massacr'd in cold Blood. The Turks had seiz'd upon the Capuchins Mansion, but Signor Michaël chief of the Canoneers, got it to be restor'd them again.

As to the Civil Government of Bagdat, there is none but a Cady, who does all, acting even the Mufti, with a Shiekelaslon or Tefterdar, who receives the Revenues of the Grand Signor. There are in it five Mosquees, of which two are indifferently well built, and adorn'd with Duomo's cover'd with varnish'd Tiles of different colours. There are also ten Inns, all ill built, except two, which are reasonably convenient. In general, the City is ill built; there being nothing of beauty in it but the Bazars, which are all arch'd; else the Merchants would not be able to endure the heats. They must also be water'd three or four times a day; for which office several poor people are hir'd upon the publick charge. The City is full of Trade, but not so full as it was, when in the hands of the King of Persia: for when the Turk took it, he kill'd most of the richest Merchants. However there is a great confluence thither from all Parts; whither for Trade, or for Devotions sake, I cannot tell: because they that follow the Sect of Haly, do believe that Haly liv'd at Bagdat. Besides, all they that are desirous to go to Mecca by Land, must pass through Bagdat, where every Pilgrim is forc'd to pay four Piasters to the Basha. You must take notice that there are in Bagdat two sorts of Mahometans, the first are call'd Rafedi's, or Heretics; the second, Observers of the Law, in all things like those at Constantinople. The Rafedi's will by no means eat or drink with a Christian, and very hardly with the rest of the Mahometans: or if they do happ'n to drink out of the same Cup, or to touch them, they presently wash themselves, as believing themselves unclean. The others are not so scrupulous, but eat and drink and converse with all the World. In the year 1639, after the Grand Signor had tak'n Bagdat, a Rafedi who was a Carrier of Water not only refus'd to give a Jew to drink, who desir'd it of him in the Market-place, but abus'd him also in words. Thereupon the Jew complain'd to the Cady, who immediately sent for him, and caus'd his Boracho and his Cup to be brought along with him; when he came before him, he ask'd for his Cup, and gave the Jew to drink, and then made the Porter drink also out of the same Cup: After that, he order'd the Rafedi to be Bastinado'd, and this Lesson to be taught him while he was chastising, That we are all God's Creatures, as well Mahometans, as Christians and Jews. This has made them less zealous in their Superstition, though they are the chiefest part of the Inhabitants of the City.

As to their Funerals, I have particularly observ'd, that when the Husband dyes, the Wife pulls off all her Head-gear, and lets her Hair fall about her Ears; then she all besmears her Face with the Soot of a Kettle, and having so done, frisks and leaps about after such a ridiculous manner, as from others would rather produce laughter than tears. All the kindred, friends and neighbours meet at the House of the deceas'd, and stay for the Celebration of the Funeral. At what time the Women strive to out-vie one another in a thousand Apish tricks, clapping their Cheeks, yelling like mad people; and then of a sudden setting themselves to dance to the sound of two Drums, like those which the Tabor-and-Pipe-Men carry, upon which the Women beat for a quarter of an hour. Among them there is one more accustom'd to this fool'ry than the rest, that fills your Ears with mournful Dinns; to which other Women make answer, by redoubling their Cries, which may be heard at a great distance. It would then be a vain thing to seek to comfort the Children of the deceas'd; for they seem to be so much beside themselves, that they are not in a condition to hear any thing. And they are oblig'd to carry themselves in that manner, unless they intend to run the reproach of not having any kindness for their Parents. When the Corps is carry'd to the Grave, abundance of poor people go before with Banners, and Crescents at the ends of Sticks, singing most dismal Dirges all the way. The Women are not to be at the Internment, who are notto