Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/15

such as we could desire, we Embark'd at Comorra in a sort of Brigantines well fitted for defence and convenience.

From Vienna to Javarin we laid three days upon the water, by reason of the great turnings and windings of the Danaw. Leaving Javarin we lay at Comorra; and from Comorra we row'd to Buda in two days. For the Road by Land is seldom travell'd, in regard that the Frontiers of both Empires are full of Thieves and Boothaylers. In fair weather you may go from Buda to Belgrade in less than eight days, but we were forc'd to stay longer upon the Water, in regard of the Cold weather.

It is the custom in Hungary, that in all Roads little frequented by Strangers, not to take any Money of the Traveller; For the Burghers lodge and entertain them civilly, for which the Burgo Master at the years end repays them out of the publick stock. But besides, that they are not troubl'd with many passengers; Hungary, which is one of the best Countries in Europe, affords provision at so cheap a rate, that to Belgrade it costs us not above two Crowns a day for fourteen people.

Buda stands upon the right hand of the Danaw, about half an hours travelling from the River. The Basha being advis'd of our arrival, sent his Squire with led Horses, and several Slaves in very good Liveries to conduct us to the Town. And though we stay'd twelve days before we could speak with him, by reason of his being sick at that time, yet he allow'd us a fair provision of Mutton, Pullets, Rice, Butter, and Bread, and two Sequins a day for small expences. He was a comely person, and of a handsom carriage; and at our departure, he sent six Caleshes with two Spahi's to conduct us to Belgrade, with order to defray our expences, which would by no means be accepted.

Coming to Belgrade we found the Sangiai as rude, as we had found the Basha civil before. For he made a ridiculous demand of two hundred Ducats a Head, and for fifteen days prolong'd the contest. But at length I so terrify'd him, by threatning to send our Complaints to the Ottaman Port, of his ill usage of two Gentlemen, kinsmen to the Embassador of France, that he was contented with fifty Ducats for all. Belgrade is situated upon a point of Land, where two great Rivers, the Danaw and the Sava meet; and is furnish'd with Wine, Bread, and all sorts of provisions at a cheap rate.

From Belgrade we took some Saddle Horses, some Coaches for Adrianople, as every one lik'd best. We pass'd through Sophia, a large and well peopl'd City, the Metropolis of the ancient Bulgarians, and the residence of the Basha of Romeli. In it stands a fair Mosquee, which hath been a Christian Church, built with so much Art, that three men may go up to the top of the Steeple, and not see one another.

From Sophia we came to Philippoli, between which Town and Adrianople we met with two Troops of Tartars well mounted. When they saw us, they made a Lane for us to pass through them, with a design most certainly to have fall'n upon us; since they could not hope to do any good upon us, but by surprize and number; for they were ill provided of Weapons, and we rarely well Arm'd. Thereupon we alighted and Barricado'd up our selves with our Chariots.In